Mortgage Calculators & Home Loan Tools

Run the real numbers on home buying, refinancing, and paying off your mortgage early. 51 free calculators, live 2026 rates from Freddie Mac, and decision frameworks built by a quantitative researcher.

30-Year Fixed
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15-Year Fixed
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FHA Rate
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VA Rate
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What are you trying to figure out?

Six common mortgage questions, mapped to the right calculator. Skip the search — jump straight to the math.

The State of Mortgages in 2026

Where home loans sit right now — pulled from Freddie Mac, NAR, the Federal Reserve, and CFPB.

The 30-year fixed mortgage rate has settled into the 6.2–6.4% range through Q1 2026, down from the cycle peak above 7.7% in late 2023 but well above the sub-3% rates that defined 2020–2021. The Federal Reserve's holding pattern through Q4 2025 — pausing after the cumulative rate hikes of 2022–2024 — combined with cooling inflation has stabilized the long end of the curve, and Freddie Mac's weekly Primary Mortgage Market Survey has shown rates within a 30-basis-point band for nine consecutive weeks.

The headline issue isn't the rate — it's affordability. With the median U.S. existing-home price around $435,300 (NAR, late 2025) and the 30-year fixed near 6.30%, the monthly P&I on a 20% down purchase is approximately $2,160. Add property tax, insurance, and PMI (where applicable) and the typical PITI runs $2,500–$2,900. By the 28% front-end ratio, that requires roughly $112,000 in household income — well above the U.S. median household income of $80,610. The income-to-affordability gap is the widest it has been in 35 years, with the National Association of Realtors' Housing Affordability Index sitting at 96.2 — meaning the median household earns just 96% of the income needed to qualify for the median home with a 20% down payment.

For homeowners with sub-4% rates locked in 2020–2021 (roughly 62% of all outstanding mortgages per the Federal Reserve), the rate lock-in effect continues to suppress existing-home inventory. New listings remain ~30% below the 2017–2019 average. This affects buyers indirectly: fewer choices, more competition for what does come to market, and prices that haven't softened as much as some forecasters predicted. Expect a slow, asymmetric thaw — when rates eventually fall toward 5%, locked-in homeowners will list, and the resulting supply increase should moderate price growth without triggering a 2008-style collapse.

On the loan-product side, FHA loans continue to dominate the low-down-payment segment with about 20% of total origination volume, VA loans add another 10%, and USDA holds roughly 1–2%. Conventional 5–10% down with PMI has gained share against FHA as PMI premiums have stayed stable while FHA's MIP requirements remain locked in for the life of the loan. The 15-year fixed has seen renewed interest as borrowers prioritize total interest savings over monthly payment optimization — particularly among 50+ buyers planning to retire debt-free. Adjustable-rate mortgages remain a small fraction (under 8%) of new originations, well below their 2007 peak.

What this means for you: the right calculator is the one that matches your actual situation. Buyers in tight affordability brackets benefit most from running multiple scenarios — different down payment percentages, loan terms, and product types — to find the combination that works. Existing homeowners should focus on whether the math justifies refinancing (typically a 0.75%+ rate drop and 2+ years remaining) or whether extra principal payments deliver more value than competing uses for that cash.

6.30%
30-yr fixed (Apr 2026, Freddie Mac)
$435,300
Median existing-home price (NAR)
$112K
Income needed for median home
62%
Mortgages locked sub-4%
96.2
NAR Affordability Index
$2,500–$2,900
Typical PITI for median home

Mortgage Math Cheat Sheet

The handful of formulas and rules of thumb that get you 90% of the way there. The calculators handle the rest.

The monthly payment formula. The standard amortizing mortgage payment is computed as M = P × [r(1 + r)n] / [(1 + r)n − 1], where M is the monthly payment, P is the loan principal, r is the monthly interest rate (annual rate ÷ 12), and n is the total number of payments (years × 12). For a $320,000 loan at 6.30% over 30 years, that's $1,981/month in principal and interest. Property tax, homeowners insurance, and PMI are added separately on top.

The 28/36 rule. Your housing payment (PITI) shouldn't exceed 28% of gross monthly income. Total debt payments (housing plus all other monthly debt) shouldn't exceed 36%. Lenders may approve up to 43% in some cases, but the 28/36 thresholds keep you in safer territory. On a $100,000 income, that's $2,333 max for housing and $3,000 max for total debt.

The 1% rule for refinancing. The traditional rule of thumb is to refinance when current rates are at least 1 percentage point below your existing rate. With closing costs typically 2–5% of the loan amount, this gives you a reasonable break-even period. The more precise calculation: closing costs ÷ monthly savings = months to recoup. If you'll stay in the home longer than that, the refinance pays off.

Total interest as percentage of principal. A useful sanity check on any mortgage scenario: divide total lifetime interest by the loan amount. A 30-year mortgage at 6.30% produces roughly 122% — meaning you'll pay $1.22 in interest for every $1 of principal. A 15-year mortgage at 5.65% produces about 49%. The shorter term plus lower rate roughly cuts lifetime interest by 60%.

The PMI math. Private mortgage insurance on conventional loans typically runs 0.46% to 1.50% of the loan amount annually, divided into 12 monthly payments. On a $320,000 loan at the midpoint (1%), that's $267/month in PMI on top of P&I — and it goes away automatically when your loan balance drops to 78% of the original home value (or sooner upon request at 80% LTV with good payment history).

Down payment vs interest rate trade. Putting down 20% rather than 10% on a $400K home saves $40,000 of borrowed principal, eliminates PMI (saving ~$3,200/year on this loan size), and typically gets you a lower rate. The lifetime cost difference: roughly $97,000 over 30 years. But that requires having an extra $40,000 in cash without depleting your emergency fund — for many buyers, the lower-down-payment route plus aggressive PMI removal at 78% LTV is more practical.

All 54 Mortgage Calculators

Organized by what you're trying to do. Every tool includes live 2026 rates and personalized analysis.

Affordability by Salary

Pre-built scenarios for common income brackets. Each shows the realistic home price range, monthly payment, and required savings.

Decision Frameworks

When to choose A vs B — the four most common mortgage decisions, distilled.

15-Year vs 30-Year Mortgage

Pick 15-year when

Choose 15-year if your stable income comfortably covers a payment ~37% higher, you want to be debt-free faster, and you value paying ~50% less lifetime interest.

Pick 30-year when

Choose 30-year for lower monthly payments, more cash flow flexibility (for investing, emergencies, or other goals), and the option to make extra payments without commitment.

Run the math: 15 vs 30-Year Calculator →

Should You Refinance?

Refinance when

Refinance when current rates are at least 0.75% lower than your existing rate, you plan to stay in the home long enough to recover closing costs (typically 2–3 years), and your credit score is strong enough to lock the lower rate.

Don't refinance if

Skip the refinance if you'll move within 2 years, the rate drop is under 0.5%, you'd need to extend the term significantly, or closing costs eat the monthly savings.

Run the math: Refinance Calculator →

FHA vs Conventional Loan

FHA wins when

Choose FHA when your credit score is between 580–680, you have 3.5–10% for down payment, and you can accept paying mortgage insurance for the life of the loan (or refinance out later).

Conventional wins when

Choose conventional with 5–20% down when your credit score is above 700 — PMI drops off automatically at 78% LTV, and the rate is typically 0.25–0.5% lower.

Run the math: FHA vs Conventional →

Rent vs Buy

Buying makes sense when

Buy when you'll stay 5+ years, you have 20% down + 6 months of expenses in savings, and the price-to-rent ratio in your area is under 20 (otherwise renting + investing the difference may win).

Renting wins when

Rent when your job stability is uncertain, you might relocate, you have other higher-priority financial goals, or your local market has a price-to-rent ratio above 25.

Run the math: Rent vs Buy Calculator →

Mortgage FAQ

The questions we get most often. Click any question to expand.

How much mortgage can I afford on my income?

A common guideline is the 28/36 rule: spend no more than 28% of gross monthly income on housing (PITI), and no more than 36% on total debt. On a $100K household income, that means roughly $2,330/month for housing, which translates to about a $400K home with 20% down at current rates. Affordability also depends on your other debt obligations, credit score, and the loan type you qualify for.

What's the difference between a fixed-rate and adjustable-rate mortgage?

A fixed-rate mortgage locks your interest rate for the entire loan term — predictable monthly payments, but generally higher starting rates. An adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) starts with a lower rate fixed for an initial period (typically 5, 7, or 10 years), then adjusts annually based on a market index. ARMs can save money if you sell or refinance before the adjustment period ends.

How much should I put down on a house?

20% is the conventional benchmark — it eliminates PMI and gets you the best rates. But it's not the only path: FHA loans accept 3.5% down, VA and USDA loans require 0%, and conventional loans now allow 3% down for first-time buyers. The trade-off: smaller down payments mean higher monthly payments, mortgage insurance, and more total interest paid.

How are mortgage rates determined in 2026?

Mortgage rates track the 10-year Treasury yield, which itself responds to Fed policy and inflation expectations. Lenders add a margin (typically 1.5–2.5%) on top of the Treasury rate to cover their costs and profit. Your individual rate is then adjusted based on credit score, loan-to-value ratio, debt-to-income ratio, and loan type (conventional, FHA, VA, jumbo).

When does PMI go away on a conventional loan?

Private mortgage insurance (PMI) on a conventional loan automatically terminates when your loan balance reaches 78% of the home's original value (for amortization-based payments). You can request earlier removal at 80% LTV if you've maintained good payment history. On FHA loans, the equivalent MIP often lasts the life of the loan unless you refinance to conventional.

Should I pay extra on my mortgage or invest the difference?

It depends on your mortgage rate and risk tolerance. If your rate is below 5%, the long-term S&P 500 average return (~10%) historically beats the guaranteed return of paying down the loan. If your rate is above 6.5%, paying down the mortgage often wins on a risk-adjusted basis. Most financial planners recommend balancing both: max your 401k match, build an emergency fund, then split between extra mortgage payments and taxable investing.

Are mortgage interest payments tax-deductible?

Yes, but only if you itemize. The standard deduction for 2026 ($30,000 married filing jointly, $15,000 single) means most homeowners take the standard deduction and get no specific benefit from mortgage interest. Itemizing only beats the standard deduction when you have a large mortgage (typically $400K+ at current rates), significant state/local taxes (capped at $10K), and meaningful charitable giving.

How long does it take to close on a mortgage?

From application to closing typically takes 30–45 days. The timeline includes: pre-approval (1–3 days), shopping and offer (varies), underwriting (10–20 days), appraisal (1–2 weeks), title work (1–2 weeks), and closing (1–2 hours, but scheduled at the end). Conventional loans close fastest; FHA, VA, and USDA loans add a few days for government processing.

What's a good debt-to-income ratio for getting approved?

Most lenders prefer a back-end DTI under 43% for conventional loans, but 36% or lower gets you the best rates. FHA loans accept up to 50% DTI in some cases. The front-end ratio (housing only) should ideally be under 28%. Lower DTI = lower risk in the lender's eyes = better rate offered.

How much does a 1% difference in rate actually cost over 30 years?

Massive. On a $400,000 30-year mortgage, the difference between 6% and 7% is $264 per month and $95,000 in total interest over the life of the loan. A 0.5% difference is roughly $130/month and $47K total. This is why shopping multiple lenders and locking your rate at the right moment matters so much.

Mortgage Glossary

10 terms every borrower should understand. For the full glossary, see our complete glossary.

Amortization
The schedule by which loan payments are split between principal and interest. Early payments are mostly interest; later payments are mostly principal.
APR
Annual Percentage Rate. Includes interest plus fees and points — a more accurate measure of borrowing cost than the interest rate alone.
ARM
Adjustable-Rate Mortgage. Rate is fixed for an initial period (often 5, 7, or 10 years) then adjusts based on a market index.
Closing Costs
Fees paid at closing — typically 2–5% of the loan amount. Include lender fees, title insurance, appraisal, and prepaid taxes/insurance.
DTI
Debt-to-Income Ratio. Total monthly debt divided by gross monthly income. Lenders prefer under 36–43%.
Escrow
An account where the lender collects monthly portions of property tax and insurance, paying them on your behalf when due.
LTV
Loan-to-Value Ratio. Mortgage balance divided by property value. PMI required above 80%; auto-removed below 78%.
PITI
Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance — the four components of a typical mortgage payment.
PMI
Private Mortgage Insurance. Required on conventional loans with less than 20% down. Typically 0.5–1.5% of the loan amount annually.
Points
Upfront fees paid to lower the interest rate. One point equals 1% of the loan amount and typically reduces the rate by 0.25%.

In-Depth Guides

Long-form articles for when you want the full context, not just the numbers.

Built by Abiot Y. Derbie, PhD — Postdoctoral Research Fellow. Quantitative researcher specializing in statistical modeling and data-driven decision systems. All calculations independently verified by Eskezeia Y. Dessie, PhD — Statistical Modeling & Machine Learning Researcher, Indiana University School of Medicine.